diy · Pattern Hack · Sewing · skirts · women's fashion

DIY/Pattern Hack – Pencil skirt with lace waistband and godets

Pencil skirts – one of my favorite wardrobe staples to make! You can dress them up, or dress them down, make them plain with solids or go fun with animal print, high waist, mid waist, short, long, the choices are all dependent on your personal style. I like to have a bit of everything. Plus, they’re an easy sew and who doesn’t like that?! Now, you might be wondering, “why mess with a classic?” and the answer is: boredom and the need for something new; new to do and new to wear.

This blog post will be different than what I typically post. More DIY informational than straight tutorial style. How it will work is that I will include a small tutorial to start you off, then provide links to the videos and blog I used to help achieve this look. It’s a lot, but worth it in the end.

Things you’ll need:

  • *Knit* pencil skirt pattern (I used Pirate Pencil Skirt by P4P)
  • Ruler
  • Pencil
  • Paper
  • Knit fabric (I used brushed poly)
  • 4″-7″ wide Stretch Lace (for the waistband)
  • Stretch Lace  (for your godets) or you can use your main fabric and achieve a completely different look
  • ¼” – ⅜” elastic (for waistband)
  • Scraps of Interfacing
  • Standard sewing materials (sewing machine, pins/clips)

 To start (the skirt body):

  • Print, assemble, & cut out your pattern. (I chose high waist, above the knee for mine)
  • Cut the main body pieces out of your main fabric as usual. DO NOT CUT A WAISTBAND!
  • Hold your pattern piece up to your body to determine how high you would like your slits to be. (I chose 5.25 inches)
  • Mark this measurement on your side seams
  • With right sides together, start from the waist and sew down to your marking (be sure to backstitch) 
  • Repeat on the other side. 
  • Trim your side seams down to ¼ inch.
  • Lay your skirt flat (it should still be inside out) and measure the width of your skirt, divide in half, then mark at that point.
  • Remember your side measurement? Measure and mark that high up from the bottom edge. 
  • Draw a line connecting these markings.
  • Making sure your fabric is smooth, slowly cut up this line. 
  • Repeat this process for the back.

The godets:

1. Watch THIS VIDEO (from Colleen G Lea of FSBTV) to learn how to draft a godet. This is where you’ll need paper, pencil, & a ruler. 

Tip: For my line, I used my slit/side measurement + ¾ inch. Excess can always be trimmed off after application.

2. Watch THIS VIDEO (How to insert a godet by FSBTV) to learn how to insert the godets in to your side seams and then watch THIS VIDEO (How to insert a godet into a slash by FSBTV) for front and back godet insertion.

Tip: Try to use a consistent seam allowance for your godets. For example, I used a ¼ inch seam allowance for mine.

The waistband:

The tutorial I used to achieve the lace waistband can be found on the Patterns for Pirates website: HERE 

Tip: place your lace waistband ⅜”- ½” above the elastic to better conceal that edge.

Hemming is completely optional with knit fabrics, but if you choose to do so, this will be your final step.

If you make it to the end of this blog, and complete a skirt of your own, please share it with me! I love to see the work and creations of other sewists!

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